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Fordyce

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Fordyce Travel Guide

Home > Grampian > Fordyce

Fordyce The earliest surviving charter, dated 10^th May 1499, granted under the Great Seal of King James IV, gave Fordyce the status of Burgh of Barony under Bishop Elphinstone of Aberdeen.

Fordyce's status as the centre of a large parish was enhanced by the comparatively peaceful times. In contrast to the regular shape and layout of Northeast Scotland's 'improved' villages, the ancient settlement of Fordyce has grown naturally as the religious centre (or kirktown) of a large parish.

As a focal point in a farming community, its status as a Burgh of Barony entitled it to hold markets and fairs. The earliest was known as Summariffe Fair, later called Hallow Fair. It took place on the common land immediately east of the village, bisected today by the Portsoy road.

The local minister, writing in the 'New Statistical Account (1842) states that 'There is a fair (All Hallow Fair) held annually on the last Wednesday of October, and another on the fourth Thursday of November. Both are for the sale of sheep and cattle; the first has also long been one of the chief feeing markets of the district'. (Feeing, in Scots, meant the practise of hiring farm servants for a six-month term).

Because of a mis-reading of an earlier charter, for many years Fordyce was permitted a Sunday market held within the churchyard. This led to much drinking and conflict with the religious authorities. The market was eventually banned. The 'Drunken Bell' was also introduced and rung as a signal that the minister was about to do the rounds of the local alehouses, to check up on those within. The minister responsible for the Statistical Account (1791-1799) remarks that he still had to 'make a step through the village, after dinner, and break up drinking parties.' Fordyce has no alehouse today.

A church has stood on this site since the 6^th century. It was originally associated with St Talarican (or Torquin), a native Pictish Saint, who was made first bishop. St Tarquin's Well, a healing well associated with the Saint, can still just be made out on the west side of the Glassaugh Burn, by Haughton Cottage on the right-of-way.

Thomas Menzies, Provost of Aberdeen, built Fordyce Castle in 1592, a three storey L-plan tower house. It has a stair tower corbelled out at the re-entrant angel, an angle turret and shot holes. There are ten rings of stone decorating the stair tower - five plain and five decorative cable mouldings, each one different. The Castle's north wing dates from around 1700.

The ancient Kirk was confirmed as a common church of the Cathedral of Aberdeen by Bishop John as early as 1351. An even earlier reference (1272) records the confirmation of Andrew de Garentuly as minister by King Alexander III. The church was rebuilt many times and only a fragment of the main structure survives. It originally consisted of a nave with aisles to west and south. The picturesque belfry dates from 1661 and tops the ancient porch and session-house. The west aisle belonged to the Ogilvies of Durn. The Durn Aisle was founded in 1516, originally as St Mary's Chapel, by Sir William Ogilvie of Strathlene. His granddaughter Margaret married Thomas Menzies of Kirkhill. Their son Thomas, Laird of Durn, built Fordyce Castle and endowed the original school. Menzies, the castle's founder, lies in the Durn Aisle.
The south side, now divided, belonged to the Abercrombies of Birkenbog (later Glassaugh) and the Ogilvies of Findlater The name Abercromby of Glassaugh can be seen on the north wall of the Glassaugh Aisle and there is a marble monument to James Abercromby of Glassaugh, (d. 1781) the army general associated with Ticonderoga. Another effect of the Reformation was the policy of the Bishops of Aberdeen to feu out the church lands to the Ogilvies of Boyne.

Today these lands form part of the Seafield Estates. In the troubled times of the Reformation, according to an early Parish Register (around 1574) the minister Gilbert Gardin (Gardyne) 'seldom went to the pulpit without his sword, for fear of the Papists'. In 1571 he was Moderator of the General Assembly. His first wife's gravestone in the kirkyard is recorded as being still readable in 1925.

The Mortar Stane (stone), associated with a very old village tradition can still be seen in the kirkyard, though it is now split with a portion missing. Until about the late 1940's, every Hogmanay this stone was taken round the village in a cart and left outside the door of the family of the most eligible girl in the village. A 'head man' would sit on the cart and read a message of good luck to the selected girl. Her father would then offer refreshments to the party. The stone outside the door was taken as a sign - always fulfilled- that the girl would be married within the year.

Shortly before the end of the year, the stone would be carried away to a secret hiding place, then on Hogmanay carried to a new maiden's home. The concealment of the stone became necessary because of rival factions disagreeing over the most eligible girl. Local tales differ as to how the ancient stone was broken, but they all involve a fire being built around it, causing it to split.

From old Scots lout, meaning to bow or submit, the Loutin Cross Stane lies all but forgotten on the now wooded Fordyce Hill, a little way to the south. This sacred stone recalls the days when part of this Kirk's revenues were paid to St Machar Cathedral in Aberdeen. When the Bishop of Aberdeen journeyed round his lands, people came from miles around to be blessed. The chosen place was the Loutin Cross Stane, used as an altar and a receptacle for holy water.

The landmark of the Durn Hill (199ft) shelters Sandend from the east. Shallow trenches, traces of ancient defensive works, can be seen circling the hilltop. Some archaeologists maintain that these trenches mark only the planned line of defence, suggesting that the hillfort was never finished.

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